For those who know fasteners, machinists, and doers, A question.

[G]

Since the 3d image of the inside is gone I cant be sure, but with the dual threaded rods you may have problems assembling if they are offset by an angle on the same piece.

I noticed the size you quoted before but hard to get an idea of how thick the plates were from that. Head pulling through could be an issue as you say.

Right now (without the pictures to remind me) I would think that your best bet is sections already fixed to the central column then bolted from the top. You could simply machine each section entirely from a big billet...

I have never come across a full 5 axis water jet, I dont think that is going to work. 3d printing may be a better option here, though it will need a substantial amount of hand polishing to finish and you are likely to loose the crispness of your edges to a small degree.


G.

[MilkyWilky]

split view by MilkyWilky, on Flickr

I definitely worry about that, the holes being offset. I thought maybe there would be enough give to cold set it into the right position. The two holes on the planks should be aligned. Maybe a good jig to hold it would help keep the tapping straight? Likewise for putting the arms onto the central column, as they're all spaced the same distance.

As for the 5-axis, I thought it was pretty similar to the cuts used to make propellers, which I've seen done.

I'm having a hard time imagining what would be bolted from the top, that's if I were to split the central column for assembly?

Thanks

[G]

split view by MilkyWilky, on Flickr



I'm having a hard time imagining what would be bolted from the top, that's if I were to split the central column for assembly?

Thanks

So make 5 parts/assemblies.

1. The base with the rings. In the middle of this put a threaded boss.

2. Lower shield-plate things and part of central spine. Can be turned from a big billet, bored out between outer shields and inner-core most of the way through leaving a flange in the centre; then put on milling machine to separate shields, create inlay grooves and bore away sections of flange to leave spokes. Screws on to base boss.

3. As 2, just with the next level of shields. Screws on top of section 2.

4. As 3. Screws to top of section 3.

5. Top cap, screws on.

Hope this helps clarify.


G.

[MEAT]

Post the pics back up....

[MilkyWilky]

Post the pics back up....

1218 Basea by MilkyWilky, on Flickr

1218 BaseE by MilkyWilky, on Flickr

We spoke with the most promising fabricators today and their machinist, and while we had figured out what we needed and wanted to do, the amount of work and the rediculous lead time (less than 30 days) was more than they could fit in with their current workload. I think the story will be the same at most places.

I'm not too choked because I originally wanted to make it from wood, reclaimed and salvadged, using metal for the placards (that are wood in the renders) and I emailed a badass letter to my supervising professors saying I'd like to tell the guy the truth, and offer to make one with wood planks (maybe ~2 polished ones) and a wooden base with some polished accents. Not to get all hippy dippy but it's a trophy they've indicated would have a 10 year lifespan (thus 10 planks) and I think because they wanted something 'as sustainable as possible' they'd be so far from that as it stands. Shiny, yea for sure, I see why they would pick it out of the other ones, but I think it'd be more interesting with a bunch of different woods. Also lighter and easier to do with our shop., which would be a good experience for any student that would want to help out. Pimp hand strong.

G, huge thanks for everything, that way would definitely work well, but I'm hoping they'll give us the freedom to try and do really something special. I might pass that on to the machinist and see if he'd have time to run something like that. 



 

[MEAT]

Thats cool, looks like most of it, including the base (with some concessions), could be done on a laser tube cutter? Would cost a fraction of getting all the stuff machined.

Find some 3-4mm thick stainless pipe the dia of the largest ring, cut out a slightly orange segment shaped profile for the bottom one (to give you the tilt), then each ring above, make it a C shape with progressively bigger gaps in the C <-- , bend those closed, weld them up and hide the joins behind the plaque on the front. Rest of it is all fairly basic tube cutting and wouldnt cost much, biggest challenge will be finding stock tubes.

You could put the chamfers on manually, but sounds like a ballache to me, i doubt it would detract from the overall look much if you left them off.

[MilkyWilky]

What up guys. Thanks again for all yall's input on this. I learned a real lesson on this one, and I hope I never need any help from anybody ever again. Thought I'd let you know how it all ended.

After I left Canada for Basel in January, another student, instructor, and technician took over the project. Some comporimises were made in order to meet the deadline, and in the end it's more or less true to the original intent. I'm actually pretty glad the base ended up being made of wood. Seems like anything else would have been a bit of a waste.
The trophy was given away and they hoisted it up gladly, and it was a great bit of press for our school and the Product Design program.

Cheers.

[torontoflatlander]

Nice work. They skipped a few things as you said. Metal features on the base, and the wood trim between the metal panels looks quite a bit thicker. I'm happy to get the satisfaction of seeing the end of this one.