Messages

1

The Bike Shop / Re: New chain / Noisy drivetrain

« on: March 21, 2016, 05:27:12 PM »

Chain line is good and the chain itself is installed correctly.

The build itself is over 2 years old. I usually change my chain out at the beginning of every spring. However, before doing that, I snapped my current one.

I managed to find the left over links and pieced together my old chain. It works fine (around 15-20 or so new links of 38 + half link that make up my chain). The new links don't see to be causing the same issue.

I expect some creaking/wear in when putting on a new chain. However, this was a bit over the top and even pedaling to break it in felt wrong.

Odyssey Bluebird ---> SRAM PC1 ---> KMC 510HX (Creaking)

2

The Bike Shop / New chain / Noisy drivetrain

« on: March 21, 2016, 02:39:03 PM »

New chain. If I turn the cranks by hand it is silent and smooth. Once I am on the bike, the drive train is very creaky / noisy whilst pedaling forwards (backwards is smooth/silent).

I have not pedaled more than around the block.

I am guessing this is simply from wear patterns on my cog/sprocket. Will this remedy itself after I put some time on it? Anyone have experience with this? I have never had a problem putting on new chains on my set ups in the past. I don't want to destroy something, but at the same time I cannot afford to shell out a bunch of money on my drive train atm.

Tried 2 new chains. New bearings in bb. Not to tight. Lubed.

 

3

The Bike Shop / Re: Misleading Amazon ad for G-Sport Birdcage Simian Front Wheel

« on: January 07, 2016, 04:34:07 PM »

Honestly, who thinks they're gonna get a G-Sport wheel for $23.00? It is misleading, but you have to be a moron to think you are getting that wheel for that amount of $.

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The Bike Shop / Re: Kink Senec Pedals: Play

« on: March 20, 2015, 02:57:37 PM »

Yeah, new pedal body/assembly and the addition of a hefty amount of thick grease (as recommended by Kink via email) did nothing. I really wanted to like these pedals... Oh well I guess.

5

Bike Gallery / Re: CCR

« on: March 02, 2015, 09:17:50 PM »

Not sure how I feel about the red walls, but otherwise its rad! Tan walls would go well with the brown seat.

Yeah tan would definitely go well. I had some on on earlier bike check with the CCR (however, minus this seat).

Around the time of purchasing the tires along with the green Credence bars I read something about Wes Craven picking Red and Green stripes for Freddy Krueger's sweater because the colours clashed and thought 'hey, I should try this out on my bike.'

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Bike Gallery / Re: CCR

« on: March 02, 2015, 09:05:46 PM »

So rad. What seat is that?

It's the Cult Dehart w/ perforated leather cover.

I didn't want to post an exhaustive parts list but quickly: CCR Frame (21), Bars, and Stem (All in green); Sunday Octave fork; Odyssey Conical headset; Duo Bohan grips; Kink Ideal barends (small ones); Fly CNC Lever w/ Tree linear cable (shorter one); Cult dehart tripod w/ Odyssey post; Odyssey Thunderbolt socket drive w/ Tree lite sprocket (30t) and Kink Senec pedals; Madera Front and Rear hub laced to Sun Big Ballers (Empire wheel build) w/ Kink Lyra and Vela tires; Odyssey blue bird chain; Fly OG brakes w/ Kool Stop Salmon pads....

7

Bike Gallery / CCR

« on: March 02, 2015, 12:45:27 PM »

My bike:

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Bike Gallery / Re: CCR / Surly

« on: February 27, 2015, 07:46:17 PM »

That CCR is pure bmx!

9

The Bike Shop / Re: Kink Senec Pedals: Play

« on: February 15, 2015, 03:42:29 PM »

I have a pair and so does my buddy. We both have a small play on all our pedals, its impossible to get away from. But with small I really mean tiny, its barely noticable.

The problem you describe I think is just because you havent installed and/or maintained them properly. The fact that the axles are tighten down on the crank means nothing. Basically the axle is a screw with a nut on it that tightens the body. If the pedal is tight on the crank then the nut is fixed to the crank, but it doesnt mean that the nut is tightened down to the body. What you need to do is to slightly loosen your pedal from the crank, tighten the nut to the body, then retighten the pedal to the crank.

They are most definitely installed properly. Pedals are not yet two months old and seeing as it is winter I have barely ridden them - so maintenance surely is not an issue. Actually, the ability to tighten the cone to the body is one of the reasons I was sold on these pedals. In the past I have always tightened the outside nut on standard unsealed pedals to limit how fast the pedal spins. However, as a result I tend to prematurely blow up bearings.

I have extra o-rings and pedal bodies. I will see if it makes a difference. However, as the pedal body is literally mint this pains me a bit. Its not that the pedal bodies are expensive... just frustrating... Maybe just bad luck on one pedal body?

In regards to Kink. I ran the OG sprockets and pegs ages ago. Good stuff. Although I am unsure about these pedals thus far, I will say that Kink's Lyra and Vela tires are terrific. Previously I ran the OG Ruben Tires (best tires ever). Can't find these anymore. Not a fan of the large size of the 2.35 Rampera and the 3 sets I have had all shit the bed (the casing in particular on the skin walled Ramperas is extremely fragile.) Looking for a tire similar to the OG Ruben I tried out the Kink Lyra and Vela and they are now my tire of choice. Underrated product in my opinion.

10

The Bike Shop / Kink Senec Pedals: Play

« on: February 14, 2015, 03:30:35 PM »

I noticed there is a few people on the board with Kink Senec pedals. I have had a set for a couple months. I am curious if you are experiencing a substantial amount of play? My pedal body clicks up and down on the spindle. The left pedal has a tolerable amount of play. I have the cone tightened so it does not spin furiously on the spindle. However, my right pedal, although tightened securely on the crank, feels as if it is completely loose when riding. I can literally hear a click when I shift my feet on the right pedal. In short, my right pedal in particular does not feel solid at all.

11

The Lounge / Re: Sharkmartin/A22 Insta-beef

« on: February 05, 2015, 11:42:53 AM »

http://www.bmxfeed.com

I have not been on TCU in a little over a year. Will not watch any vids hosted on their YT account. Don't follow any of their stuff on any social media.

"It's easy, you do!" ~ Ruben Alcantara

why isit the first like i clicked on on that bmxfeed.com site takes me to the cuntup?

They index content from around the web so TCU stuff is on there. Very easy to avoid it though.

12

The Lounge / Re: Sharkmartin/A22 Insta-beef

« on: February 03, 2015, 08:00:06 PM »

http://www.bmxfeed.com

I have not been on TCU in a little over a year. Will not watch any vids hosted on their YT account. Don't follow any of their stuff on any social media.

"It's easy, you do!" ~ Ruben Alcantara

13

Bike Gallery / Re: 2007 T1 Sweet Fu@k All

« on: January 29, 2015, 12:24:18 PM »

Nice! Makes me want to start building up my mass bcode.

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The Bike Shop / Re: Steerer Tube Threading/Compression Bolt Size and Fork Failure

« on: January 28, 2015, 11:16:57 AM »

haha yes,  sparky's literally keeps 25mm alive

Bonedeth, Mutiny, Shadow and Subrosa do all use 25mm...

But so do Colony, Deco, Demolition, Fly, Kink, Macneil, Premium, Snafu, Stolen, Total, Verde... (as far as I can tell).

statistics will be taken into account as soon as someone actually runs something from one of those brands

What kind of dirty Canadian are you, not running Macneil parts. For shame...

TBH, as a Canadian, I don't see anyone running Macneil products anymore (outside of those few who are sponsored/flowed product). I'm not sure how you go from the Ruben kit, guard sprocket, pivotal etc... to what they offer now. But, I guess that's a topic for another thread...

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The Bike Shop / Re: Steerer Tube Threading/Compression Bolt Size and Fork Failure

« on: January 28, 2015, 10:53:29 AM »

I'm responsible for the 24mm thread.

When I first came to work with Odyssey and we started on forks, I wanted a big enough top bolt to run a front brake cable with the housing and be able to withdraw it without messing with the brake too much. But I also wanted to remove the heat and stress concentration of a welded insert. So that led me to looking at threading the steerer directly and using a big hollow aluminium bolt.
M25 was the nearest off the shelf size, but in a 28.6mm steerer that left a wall thickness of just 1.8mm and WITH the added stress raisers of all the thread tips. So instead I drew up the steerer as a multi-butted tube with a "thick bit" where the bolt goes and to use a 24mm (non standard) thread. This leaves 2.3mm wall thickness whilst keeping the weight reasonable.
I also added a longer "fat" section at another critical area just above the bottom headset seat where there is a lot of stress.

Our competitors obviously looked at these forks and took them to Cyclogic and CWI and said something along the lines of "copy this". But butting the steerer is expensive and difficult, commissioning a 24mm custom tap is more money and more work than just picking up a 25mm off the shelf and so they came up with the brilliant plan of just using a plain bore and shoving the tap in... OK so its massively weaker but it "looks" the same and who REALLY gives a shit right?!? 

So now, our forks are one of the more expensive options, but mysteriously everyone else's lifetime warranties have had to be scaled back and have lots of caveats attached... wonder why that might be...

We aim to make the best, strongest, safest forks we can. We work damn hard at it and go to the added expense of having an actual engineer (me) design them, doing proper testing and not cutting corners. Because snapping forks isnt just "annoying" and might leave you with a warranty claim that doesn't get honored... its fucking horrible.


G.

Thanks!