What have you made?

[human]

Human, what're the numbers on that bad boy? Definitely want to try my hand at shaping at some point.

6'9 x 17 1/2 x 22 1/2 x 15 x 2 1/2 displacement hull.

[Sasper]

Nice chair DJS - do you have a portfolio online somewhere?


Here's a recent longboard I made.  Inlay is pretty difficult; I'll probably just stick to bookmatched sheets from now on...  My 'Modern Pintail' design with maple and walnut burl veneer:




P.S.
This new layout sucks...

So how is this inlay made?, looks amazing

[montymitch]

designed a formed plywood chair made from 2 moulds. full scale model-
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I would love to see this with an extra set of legs.

[Rick K]

designed a formed plywood chair made from 2 moulds. full scale model-
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I would love to see this with an extra set of legs.

like one of these?

[montymitch]

Haha, Simpsons did it first.
I was thinking more insectoid, like this. Sorry for the rush ps job, but it gets the idea across.

[MathDebater]

Human, what're the numbers on that bad boy? Definitely want to try my hand at shaping at some point.

R
6'9 x 17 1/2 x 22 1/2 x 15 x 2 1/2 displacement hull.

Rad, post some more pictures when it's all glassed up

[burtnderson]

Recently:

Snowboard bench


Tamper for trails

[Unbornagain]

Smoker/BBQ i'm building. Putting cabinet-like doors and a crank that will hook to a grill so that you can lower and raise the grill so that you can smoke with hooks too. Almost finished

[MEAT]

Made myself a gopro wire cam thingamy at work on the 3d printer when no one was looking, idea was i wanted something small enough to fit into a camelbak, light enough to use 1-2mm 'wire' and with some sort of speed limiter, without using friction on the line (makes a racket and gives a bumpy shot). Designed with the limitations of the printer in mind, so not the sexiest thing ever, but started off like this...



That middle wheel can be adjusted up and down, idea being that the more of an angle you bend the line (some parachord i found) through the slower it would go.

It changed a bit along the way, figured i could get the same result from the centre wheel by moving it left and right, as it would up and down, also the original camera attachment was fucking awful idea so i simplified that to use two ball/socket joints clamping together with a single captive bolt. Its about 250g all in.




First test flight, wasnt expecting it to go this fast... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=laMjo1FC7OI


So the 3rd wheel bendy wire thing does work, it'll slow it by about 25%, but thats about it, you bend it further and it makes the trolley unstable, its not anywhere near enough of a braking force for what i need..

Anyone here got any ideas? I can make pretty much anything within reason, a cylindrical fan like a turbo trainer might do it, but it would have to be reasonably large, or geared up with some sort of pulley arrangement to increase its speed, maybe there's something simple i can do with magnets, rubber bands, etc....

[G]

^^ Maybe try bolting a simple (non rotating) bush in one of the spare holes to just rub gently against the line. Make it like an eccentric cam and you can just rotate it to vary the pressure.



G.

[MEAT]

Yeah that's probably the way of doing it, id wanted to stay away from creating friction on the line, thinking that wear might be an issue, it would be nice if the braking force was proportional to the speed too, so you get a smooth start/stop on it.

I've got a load of 608 bearings kicking around, so maybe i could do something like you suggested, but pinching the line between two bearing races, rather than static surfaces....

[@ss4oLe]

MEAT - where do you work and how did you learn to do what you do? on job training or schooling?

that this is cool!

[ad.]

Meat - you need some sort of fan then. This sort of blade probably makes sense

[MEAT]

Was there supposed to be a picture or something there? I was mulling it over earlier and got the idea to do a fan something like a paddle steamer on the middle wheel, but with blades that you can flare like the prop on an aeroplane, so when the blades are set at 90deg sticking out relative to the alu chassis bit you get max resistance, as you angle them inwards the resistance decreases, until they're parallel with the chassis and not really doing anything, kind of like a classic windmill in a side wind.... no idea if any of that makes sense, even less idea if it'll actually work...

I work for an engineering and design consultancy, design stuff from scratch for other companies mostly and then oversee its manufacture. It has its ups and downs, the good days are brilliant, the bad days are fucking awful. Did an engineering degree, worked for a year or so then did an industrial design degree.

[Alex.]

Not me, but figured this was a good place to post it. Hand making a knife.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R98cGkhN18o